Moved stuff, added Mini AP designs

Hardware/2.9-1.54 Flasher by ATC1441/README.md

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+# 3D-printed programming jig
+
+## Jig from [ATC1441](https://github.com/atc1441)
+
+### Version: ZBS243_Pogo_Flasher
+
+<img width="600" alt="atc1441_jig1" src="atc1441_jig1.jpg">
+
+<img width="600" alt="atc1441_jig2" src="atc1441_jig2.jpg">
+
+- The Jig is printed in 3 parts, and uses the 1.3mm Pogo Pins
+- The Screws to connect the main and bottom body together need to be screwed in quite hard  anything from 1-3mm should work
+- The body and screws are designed for the ESP32 Lolin32 Lite board
+
+#### Also available [on Tinkercad](https://www.tinkercad.com/things/37yG0A1sEFw?sharecode=woPw-7fiiAaOwkRt-xzJYHstxwA_3Xcl5dmdgnPgwAw)

Hardware/4.2-2.9-1.54 Flasher by Jelmer/README.md

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+# 3D-printed programming jig (old style, no PCB required)
+
+### Version: jig-16, jig-29 and jig-42
+
+<img width="600" alt="jig1" src="jig1.jpg">
+
+<img width="600" alt="jig2" src="jig2.jpg">
+
+<img width="600" alt="jig4" src="jig3.jpg">
+
+<img width="600" alt="jig4" src="jig4.jpg">
+
+- This design uses 1mm pogo pins to connect to the pins on the 4.2"/2.9"/1.6" Solum ESL's. My printer doesn't have the resolution to properly do the 1mm holes in the smaller rectangle, so I use a soldering iron to coax the pins through the plastic. A 1mm drill works nicely too. Whatever works for you.
+- Use small screws or some compatible glue to attach the latch to the side of the cradle
+- I used hot glue to attach an arduino nano to the underside next to the exposed pogo pins. An ESP32 can also be used and has more memory to provide more features in the future, but I didn't want to waste one on this